Charming, rustic accommodation, top-class snorkelling and a shining example of sustainable tourism. Chumbe Island Coral Park, situated a few kilometres offshore from Zanzibar, leaves us speechless every time we visit. Not only is it one of the most blissfully rustic and romantic places to stay, it's also one of the most environmentally proactive lodges in the world.

Chumbe has all the attractions of an island paradise - glorious coral reefs, waving palm trees, thick coral-rag forests and sublime cuisine - but it's as far removed from a typical holiday resort as you'll get. There are no cocktail bars, catamarans, swimming pools, televisions or even electricity. If you're looking for entertainment it's all provided courtesy of nature.

Chumbe offers the most pristine and colourful coral reefs you'll find on the East Coast with over 200 species of coral providing a sanctuary for more than 400 species of colourful fish. To protect these coral reefs, diving is not permitted in the marine park. The reef is shallow enough to see everything very clearly with a mask, snorkel and fins. There is also a coral-rag forest which is home to the endangered Ader's duiker, giant coconut crabs, hermit crabs and a variety of bird species. Knowledgeable guides take guests on daily snorkelling and forest tours.

There's only one small lodge accommodating no more than 14 people, so you've got the island almost to yourself. The structures have been built using natural materials and have won numerous awards for their eco-friendly design. The main lodge was built in the shape of a giant clam over the ruins of the old lighthouse keeper's cottage. Besides the main lodge and seven bungalows, there's an old mosque, which the Swahili staff still use, and an abandoned lighthouse, which you can climb to admire the view.

Chumbe is closed from 15 April until 15 June

The seven bungalows, or eco-bandas, are set a reasonable distance apart from each other and only a few paces down a sandy path to the ocean.

Casuarina poles have been lashed together with coconut rope forming secure walls, and the roof has been constructed with palm fronds layered into sheets. There is an upstairs bedroom with a cupboard and a mattress on the floor underneath a flowing mosquito net. You have magnificent sea views as one side of the room is open, with a blind to pull down if required. Downstairs is a lounge area, which is decorated with African art, an extremely comfortable hammock and some chairs. The lounge is also open, allowing the gentle ocean breezes in. Leading off the lounge is a small bathroom with a hot-water shower, toilet and basin.

The bandas lack all the mod cons of a resort (televisions, telephones, air-conditioners, mini-bars), but use some of the best eco-friendly technology in the world. The eco-bandas were designed to have minimal impact on the environment. Since there is no fresh water on Chumbe, rainwater is funnelled down the roof into large cisterns under each banda. The water is filtered and then pumped to the bathrooms through a solar-powered heating system. Once used, this water passes through a series of filters in special plant beds encased in clay, which are located on either side of the banda. These plants are specially selected for their ability to take up phosphates and nitrates from the soil.

The toilets are the most groundbreaking. To economise on water and waste, a compost toilet handles sewage. It looks like your standard toilet, but instead of flushing it you scoop compost into the long funnel. The waste decomposes naturally in a closed chamber so that no sewage leaks into the ground or sea. There are no smells, thanks to a wind-powered extraction system. Sounds strange, but the system works wonderfully.

Lights and hot water all run off solar power as there is no electricity on the island. To aid ventilation in hot weather the banda roofs have been shaped to act as wind funnels, ensuring you stay cool and comfortable while indoors on a hot day.

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General hotel facilities:
• Dining room serving set meals
• Educational facility for school groups
• Upper-level lounge area in lodge

Room facilities:
• Eco-friendly bandas
• En-suite bathrooms with compost toilets and solar-heated showers
• Naturally ventilated bandas (ie. sea breeze)

Activities:
• Each day there are guided snorkelling trips and forest walks. You'll be shown the most pristine coral reefs on Zanzibar and will learn about the coral-rag forest.
• Climb to the top of the lighthouse and watch the sun go down.
• Lounge on a hammock or wooden sun lounger in a secluded spot under the palms.
• The staff can also arrange a variety of guided day trips to Stone Town and mainland Zanzibar.
• Read a novel from the small library.

Services:
• Boat transfer to the island from and to Mbweni Ruins Hotel, a few kilometres from Stone Town.